What to buy at the farmers market right now

It’s finally that time of year when farmers markets are open and the booths are brimming with a colorful variety of fruits, vegetables and herbs.

If you’re lacking inspiration for how to prepare this bounty, look no further than to those who grew it.

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New Jersey grows more than 100 varieties of fruits and vegetables, said Al Murray, the assistant secretary of agriculture for the New Jersey Department of Agriculture. “There’s always opportunity for our farmers.”

In the past, the Garden State provided food for the growing cities of Philadelphia and New York. But today, New Jersey farmers also have plenty of local business.

Murray has seen a lot of change in his 33 years with the department.

“Twenty years ago,” he said, “you might have had 30 to 35 of these markets throughout the state. Twenty years later, we have almost 160 of these farmers markets spread throughout the state.”

Not only are there more markets, he said, but there are more varieties of fruits and vegetables from those markets.

Murray attributes the boom in farmers markets to growing concerns over food safety and the toll food transportation takes in terms of both actual and environmental costs. With Jersey Fresh, he said, you know you’re getting a locally grown product.

And during the growing season, it is a nice feeling to be able to buy local produce. “Customers just feel more comfortable if there is a face behind the food,” he said.

As far as that growing season goes, the cool, wet weather may have done us a favor.

“It’s been a cold spring and a wet spring and our greens absolutely love cold, wet spring,” Murray said. “There’s such beautiful stuff out there right now.”

The wet spring also is going to produce some nice blueberries and peaches later on, he said.

But for now, Murray’s pick at his local markets is the asparagus.

“I roast it with olive oil and coarse salt and that’s all I need.”

Asparagus and herbs

Contrary to what most people think, said Rose Robson of Robson’s Farm in Wrightstown, chubby asparagus is tender.

Robson held up a fat stalk of purple asparagus at the Westmont Farmers' Market.

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“Purple asparagus is fun,” she said. And you can keep the purple color from cooking out by roasting the asparagus rather than steaming or boiling it.

Herbs are also big right now, perfect for planting a new spring garden, and Robson picked up a small container of pineapple sage. The tender green leaves have a sweet, pineapple-like scent.

“It has a mild sweetness to it,” Robson said. “The pineapple sage is used mainly for drinks.”

Just put it in water, tea, or roll up the leaves and chop chiffonade-style into long, thin slices for margaritas.

Ryan Weightman from Formisano Farms in Buena recommended another herb: Epazote.

People don’t buy it because they don’t know what it is, Weightman said, but he suggests using it like cilantro. The main difference? “It’s better than cilantro.”

Kale and greens

While the herbs — and especially the lemon varieties of those herbs — are popular, Weightman said, plenty of customers at the Collingswood Farmers' Market were stocking up on their greens.

The purple kale is sweeter than traditional kale, he told one customer who asked about the varieties, and the Tuscan kale is more tender.

“Kale is a big seller,” said Kevin Flaim from Flaim Farms in Vineland.

But his personal preference is the romaine lettuce. His wife grills it for the best result, he said.

“Drizzle a little olive oil and some salt and pepper and grill until you get the lines of the grill on it,” said Sharon Flaim. Then just drizzle with Caesar dressing and shaved Parmesan.

And while kale may be the big seller, she suggested giving the bok choy and swiss chard a shot. If you don’t know how to cook them, just use her foolproof method.

“I’m Italian, so I cook everything garlic and oil.”

Mushrooms

They don’t have a growing season; they grow year-round, said Jen Shuck from Davidson Exotic Mushrooms in Kennett Square, Pennsylvania. But as the farmers markets opened for the season, containers of mushrooms disappearing rapidly.

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They weren’t just selling the portabellas, either. The maitake, a multi-layered, ruffled cloud of a mushroom, was a hit with the Collingswood crowd.

“They’re pretty popular,” Shuck said. “They have an earthy flavor.”

The booth has a binder of recipes for shoppers in need of inspiration, but the maitakes are good sautéed, roasted, you name it, Shuck said. She recommended cooking them up with some eggs.

Unexpectedly, “Two people came up today and said they use them in a cheesecake,” she said. The first soaked them in honey before adding them, the second made a savory cheesecake.

Strawberries

For a more conventional dessert, pick up some strawberries from Haynicz’s Orchard View Farm in Monroeville from their Westmont or Haddonfield stand.

“Jersey strawberries, they’ve always been a classic,” said Ken Walker.

Betty Huntsinger suggested serving them over shortcake, but Tom Huntsinger said spooning them over ice cream is an even better option, or just plain.

“I love to just eat them the way they are,” he said.

Shannon Eblen: (856) 486-2475; SEblen@gannettnj.com

If you go

To find a community farmers market close to you, visit Jersey Fresh at jerseyfresh.nj.gov/find/community.html

Local farmers markets

Collingswood Farmers' Market: Along Atlantic Avenue between Collins and Irvin Avenues from 8 a.m. to 12 p.m. on Saturdays.

Haddonfield Farmers' Market: Kings Court on Kings Highway from 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on Saturdays.

Westmont Farmers' Market: Corner of Haddon and Stratford Avenues from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. on Wednesdays.